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Sunday, November 10, 2013

Day 11: Paso Robles to San Simeon



Ah, the luxuries of indoor living, where you don’t get a chilly shock when you crawl out of bed.  Plus, there was such a good internet connection in the hotel room that I was able to add photos to all the previous blogs – scroll down to check them out!
Trying to find breakfast in Paso Robles was a bit of an ordeal, because all the places near the hotel were packed full of high school students visiting for some extracurricular competition or conference or something.  So we got a late start, and we had to hurry so we could visit - - -
Nitt Witt Ridge! A little known historic landmark, Nitt Witt Ridge is privately owned and only open by appointment.  It is located in the town of Cambria, about 30 miles west of Paso Robles.  The town doesn’t let the owner charge admission, operate a gift shop, or otherwise operate commercially (due to a nearly century long battle between the city and the property), but the owner/tour guide does ask that visitors donate $10/person for maintenance and restoration.  It’s definitely worth a visit.  The owner gives a very informative and fascinating 45 minutes tour of the property.
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Nitt Witt Ridge was built by “Captain Nitt Witt” (as his adversaries called him) or Der Tinkerpaw (as his friends and supporters called him) from the 1920’s through the 1980’s. It is built entirely of repurposed materials, including scrap lumber, beer cans, car tire rims, rocks, scrap pipes and electrical wires, etc.  It is decorated with abalone shells, scrap wallpaper (so the walls don’t match), toilet seats for picture frames, a rusty old hay fork atop a pillar, and a toilet on the roof for sitting and enjoying the view (or yelling at people on the street, as Der Tinkerpaw was wont to do).   Even the stove in the kitchen is made of parts salvaged from three different stoves.  The whole thing is surprisingly strong, and has withstood earthquakes with no structural damage.  
The town has been trying to condemn it to have it torn down since it was started, but after the state declared it a historical landmark it became protected.  Der Tinkerpaw called it a “Hysterical Landmark.”  He lived there until he was forced to move into a nursing home in his 90’s.  The current owner does not live there (it is not in good enough condition for that), and keeps it preserved just as it was left when the builder moved out, complete with clothes in the closet and cans of food and Metamucil in the kitchen cabinets.
We then biked to San Simeon to see the Hearst Castle.  Unfortunately, when we arrived, we learned that the rest of the tours for the day were sold out. This surprised me, as it’s not tourist season anymore, and half the town of San Simeon is closed up for the winter.  Luckily we have the sag wagon, so we can zip over in the morning for a tour then (we made sure to RSVP this time!). We were able to see the IMAX movie about the castle, which was very informative.
The upside of this change of plans is that we had time to cruise over to Piedras Blancas to see the elephant seals.  They are so cool! They are only at the beach there for a small part of the year.  This season is when the juveniles “haul out” to live on the beach; it is just about time for the adult males to arrive as well.  “Hauling out” is quite the appropriate term for their migration out of the deep ocean to the beach, because they are huge and ungainly on land.  They don’t move for very long stretches of time or distance, and even their battles and sparring matches are brief, since it takes so much energy to move their massive bodies around.
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Tonight we are camped at San Simeon State Beach, although the campground is a bit inland.  It’s pretty full, quite the difference from the last campground we were at which was nearly deserted.  But the campsites are spaced well and of decent size, so it doesn’t feel too crowded.  It reminds me a lot of New Brighton State Beach campground… except that this one doesn’t have any phone or internet reception.
Today’s route:  http://ridewithgps.com/routes/2860758


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