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Monday, November 18, 2013

Day 20: San Clemente to Cardiff-by-the-Sea



This morning we broke our fast with pastries from San Juan Capistrano, and boy were they good.  As is our usual custom, we got three different pastries and divided them between the three of us so we could try more.
The first stop of the day was Mission San Luis Rey de Francia, named for King Louis IX of France who led one of the Crusades.  It is called the King of the Missions, because it is the largest of them all.  Even until 1830, when California had become more developed, this mission was still the largest building in the entire land.  It was also the most productive in agricultural output. 
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Architecturally, this mission is interesting beyond just its size.  It’s the only mission chapel still standing to have been built in a cruciform shape (San Juan Capistrano’s Great Stone Chapel was built that way also, but it has not been rebuilt since it fell over nearly 100 years ago). It is the only mission chapel to have a cupola.  It is also unusual because it’s bell tower stands off center, so it appears as if it is missing a match for the left side, but actually no second tower had ever been planned.
San Luis Rey is the home of the first “California Pepper Tree” (they are actually Peruvian Pepper Trees), which was planted at the mission when a sailor gave the padres some tree seeds.  It is so big and old that its branches need to be supported.
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This mission had a very nice museum.  It was not too big or too small, and it was full quality artifacts and displays that were well put together.  Even though it’s my 20th mission museum in a row to visit, and I’ve now seen more Indian baskets, mortars, and tallow vats than I can count, I still learned some things at this mission.
Our next stop was Carlsbad Village, the historic downtown of Carlsbad, where we ate our way around town.  First was lunch at local’s favorite Al’s Café, where I had a great vegetarian eggs benedict, and dad had homemade corned beef hash.  We followed that up with a stop at the Carlsbad Chocolate Bar, for chocolate covered mint Milanos, raspberry white chocolate cheesecake truffles, and chocolate covered espresso beans (in a variety of chocolate!).  Then, we swung by the Carlsbad Danish Bakery to pick up breakfast for tomorrow (cinnamon custard Danish), and couldn’t resist picking up some dessert for tonight (a decadent looking slice of chocolate cake sandwiched around lemon cheesecake).
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Finally, full and fully stocked on goodies, we headed for the campground at San Elijo State Beach.  It is a very nice campground, with large, flat sites, on a low bluff next to the beach, with a camp store, laundry facilities, and surfing school (which I would really like to try, but won’t have time on this trip).  It’s our last campsite of the ride!
Today’s route: http://ridewithgps.com/routes/2875657

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